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Mike Devlin on Fast Food Nation: Why We Can’t Stop Loving It (Even When We Should)

14 Jul, 2025 1626
Mike Devlin on Fast Food Nation: Why We Can’t Stop Loving It (Even When We Should)

You're hungry, late for something and in a rush, lazy – fast food is there for you. It cares not whether you feel bad for partaking, whether you are supposed to be on a diet, or if you are simply bone idle; it just wants you to shove its food in your face.

And it has been doing this probably for far longer than you realise; White Castle has been at it since 1916. But it wasn't until 1940 that things really got going, when McDonald's arrived. Of course, all of this was US-based; more and more people had cars, global wars were not affecting the country's residents, and the vast size of the country allowed new buildings pretty much anywhere permission was granted.

Now, they are pretty much everywhere, and if there isn't one near you, there's probably planning permission applied for it. There is still yet to be one in Antarctica, mind you, despite Mount McDonald being right there – seriously, guys, what are you playing at?

But yes, Penguin Land aside, they are everywhere. But is this a good thing? We know they are not exactly healthy (even salads have sugar in them), and it's always better to support your local eateries (as many cultures do). Many countries have actively ignored them altogether (do I really need to say Vatican City?), whilst others are not doing as well as they arrogantly thought they would, despite quite often offering fare more catered to a region or culture (Indian McDonald's do not serve beef or pork).

Is all fast food the same though? In one (rather gigantic) corner, we have the multinational franchises, and in the other, nation-specific brands and standalone joints. Some are healthier than others, some are more expensive, and some offer high-end fast food that isn't quite restaurant quality but certainly isn't Greasy Spoon territory. The dictionary definition of 'restaurant', however, is any place you order food cooked on the premises and sit, at or in, the establishment to eat it, so in that regard your Greasy Spoon is a restaurant, despite most people's own definition requiring plates and cutlery.

Additionally, fast in German literally means almost – insert your joke of choice here.

You can, of course, create copies of these menu items at home – I often have, be they the finished article, or the ‘secret’ sauces and blends – and despite the notable sight differences, you'd be hard-pressed to tell the difference in a blindfold test. But is it ultimately worth it? Perhaps if you wish to show off, or are having a party with ten people, some of whom are particularly fussy eaters. Other than that, probably not (although there is a case to be made for fried chicken, as it is relatively easy if you have everything to hand).

Almost Food is here to stay, and to be honest, I have absolutely nothing against the vast array of what's available – but, as with most things, moderation is paramount. One tip, though, before I go: when ordering, remove one item from your meal, even if you like it – be it tomato, pickle, a condiment – this way you know they have specifically made it just for your order and not just pulled one out of hot storage.